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A great gift idea for that special fancier is a Siegel's Gift Certificate, available in any amount, for a holiday gift, a birthday, Father's Day, or any other occasion. Just phone us at 800-437-4436 and we'll make up a nice certificate and mail it to your recipient. He or she will be able to apply it to a new book, a great new training basket, medications or supplements, or any other purchase from Siegel's.




Dozens of birds from the Zazueta loft have been auctioned. Due to popular request, we've retained information about the lineage and history of the Zazueta loft here on the web site.
Click here for details


The timer revolution

When split seconds count, make sure you're counting split seconds accurately! Benzing electronic timers have quickly become the new standard in our sport and are more popular than ever! The best has gotten better! Benzing's new M-1 clock and "Lazer" antennas are now in the States, and full distribution is now available. They are the most accurate, sensitive antenna in the world today--with the most antenna coils per square inch of any pigeon scanning antenna available!

It was a kick to sit at our computer monitor and "watch" the birds clock in the World Ace Challenge races!

The biggest races rely on the Benzing tradition of accuracy and speed, and the Benzing M-1 system is revealing itself to be heads above the competition.

A Benzing M-1 "Lazer" system recently clocked the Lou McElroy Race. Among the other major one-loft races using Benzing Lazers are the Colorado Goldrush Race, a 300-mile race flown from Elm Creek, NE, released on October 14, 2006.
the East Coast Classic, the Gulf Coast Classic, the San Diego Classic, the San Jacinto Classic, America's King Cup, the Snowbird Classic, and the Caribbean Classic.

Other members of the Benzing "family" of futurity races and racing combines include the Texas Shoot-Out, American Showdown, Desert Classic, East Coast Challenge, Flamingo Race, Caribbean Classic, Queen City Memorial, Boundbrook Futurity, and Paterson Air Derby, among many others....
Tell me more...




Take me to Instructions for Downloading Benzing Clocks to WinSpeed after a race...




Take me to Instructions for Acquiring and Using the Benzing Download Program...




Take me to Instructions for Atomic Timer Use on Benzing Electronic Systems...




Take me to a list of printers that are compatible with Benzing Electronic Systems...




In News & Views:
In his newest report, Stefan Mertens interviews
Patrick Lismont, 1st National Champion SD Youngsters KBDB 2014... Mertens filed another recent report on Pierre Bourgeois, branche of the De Vooght colony, 1st National Ace Marathon KBDB 2014, ...Mertens himself is the 2006 1st National Champion KBDB Middle Distance Youngbirds.
For these reports, and many other archived features, click here...
Read on for all the news!




SUANOVIL BULLETIN


Suanovil is not in stock now. When it is unavailable, there are effective substitutes.

Suanovil is one of the most effective products for respiratory infections in our birds, so feel free to call us about its availability whenever you might need it.

When you cannot find Suanovil, there are very effective substitutes for it: Doxy-T and Doxyvet, Tylan Concentrate, Linco-Spectin, or Ery-Mycin. Any of these can be substituted for Suanovil with very satisfactory results.

For severe cases, we recommend using two of these products in combination with each other.



Where's Ed?


Siegel's Ed Minvielle on the road...again!
Siegel Pigeons prospective travel schedule:



Texas Center Racing Pigeon Convention - July 15-18 Lafayette, LA


California State Racing
Pigeon Organization - November 5-8

AU Convention - Oct 21-25
Salt Lake City, UT

National Show - Nov. 21 NY

Dixie - December 9-12 FL


We look forward to a wonderful convention season and to seeing our friends and customers around the country on our travels in 2015...




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2015 Texas Center Convention Information



IMPORTANT INFORMATION ON BENZING CHIP CODE RINGS

With the racing season coming up we want you to be aware...

As you should know...on January 1, 2015 Benzing clocks and club units no longer support the BR chip ring, only the PRO and ICOM chips will continue to be supported by Benzing equipment. You will have to replace all BR rings with the PRO or ICOM chips. The PRO and ICOM chips will work on all Benzing clocks and club units that have had the latest software updates installed.  To check whether your clock or club unit is running a software that will accept the PRO and ICOM chips, you can refer to the chart below. 

BENZING MODEL

SOFTWARE RANGE

LATEST SOFTWARE VERSION

EXPRESS

3.00-3.02

3.02

ATIS TOP

5.60-5.90

5.90

M1

3.08-4.01

4.01

EXPRESS G2

2.06-2.07

2.07

CLUB SYSTEM (NEW)

2.9-4.00

4.0

To see how to tell the chips apart click this link!

 


Tips for the fancier:

February
in the Loft


Last month I referred to a way to keep our racing birds from molting too soon by pulling a widow hen from her mate after the second egg of the second round is laid. Pigeons will molt a feather for each round that they lay and brood, and in order to delay the process of those all-important wing flights on a racer from molting too fast, we can slow down this process in a widow cock by removing his hen and removing the eggs so that he does not go through the process of setting and raising another round of young. Some fanciers think that taking both the hen and the eggs away at the same time could cause undue stress for the cock bird.


That is why they leave the youngsters (or at least one youngster) with the cock, because at this point in the rearing process he is the main care-giver for the babies, and the idea is that even if his hen and the next round of eggs are missing, he will become so totally aborbed in taking care of his youngsters that he will not become overly distressed by his missing hen and eggs.


Obviously, if there are no youngsters, then a good way to undertake this process would be to remove the hen from the loft while the cock is sitting the nest, and then let him continue to sit the eggs until he quits the nest, which might be two or three days later. But in this way, the stress of separation from his hen and eggs will be much more gradual and less stressful. The idea is to get the cock to develop a strong bond to his nestbox, to identify this as his most sacred place in the world, a place that he will put forth great effort in getting back to as fast as he can, but NOT to wear him out by having him raise too many youngsters or drive his hen too many times, and in the process proceed too far in the molt.


Most experienced racing fanciers do not concern themselves too much with whether the first, second or third (counting from the middle out) flights are missing when a bird goes to the races, but the farther out on the wing that a flight is missing, the more important it becomes to successful flight. Thus, it might be important for you to take note of this during the winter preparation of your race team, and try to make a plan about when you will pair your racers and how many eggs and young you will allow them to raise before the races start.


By February, most fanciers throughout the country have paired their breeders. Many pairs are already sitting their second round of eggs, while some are just being paired for their first. In some parts of the country, fanciers are beginning to train their old-bird race teams for the upcoming season. Because the winning that fanciers do with young birds is entirely tied to the health of the breeders when they were paired, I want to explore what is considered a healthy pigeon as well as to detail what to look for to determine that a pigeon is not in top health for the upcoming breeding and racing seasons.


Before pairing up his breeders, a successful fancier will determine that the birds are in absolute top health. How is this done? First, I like to look at the flock in general. An experienced fancier can tell at a glance if a flock of pigeons is healthy and happy by the way that they act in the loft. Is there great energy in the loft? Do the birds sparkle, and have sheen on their feathers? Are they active and full of life? If so, things in general are good. But what about individual birds? Sometimes, even in a good loft with overall excellent health, a bird or two can slip through the cracks so to speak, and the fancier can miss the fact that a few birds are not up to par.


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Many weeks prior to racing and breeding, I like to take each bird in hand and thoroughly inspect it. When I handle a bird, the first thing I consider is the pigeon's weight. If a bird is light, I want to know why. If a bird is extremely light, I put it in isolation for closer observation. Once I have determined that the particular bird I am handling is within the "window" of weight for proper health, I examine the head, paying particular attention to the nose cere or wattle. I want the cere to be extremely white in color and chalky looking. If it is not, and the pigeon is not feeding young, I will generally remove that bird from the flock because a sure sign of trouble in a pigeon is if the nose cere is gray or brown and wet looking, especially if that bird is not feeding young. Only if a bird is feeding young will I disregard this area being discolored.


If you have birds in your loft that are not feeding young, and who show signs of a discolored nose wattle, you should check these birds immediately. Usually "brown noses" indicate a canker or respiratory problem, but this could also be an indicator of even more problems. If I detect a problem with the "brown nose," I will usually look inside the beak to see if I can detect mucous in the throat. Almost always (unless feeding young), when a bird has a brown nose, there will be throat mucous present. Of course, if a veterinarian is readily available, a throat smear would be the best first course of action.

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Unfortunately, in the United States, experienced vets for pigeons are rather hard to find, so we fanciers have to inform ourselves about the diseases and medications used to treat them. In a situation where I find a bird with a brown nose wattle and throat mucous, I recommend isolating the bird and treating for five days for canker, using either Turbosole, Ridzol, Pegosan, Trichoron Forte or Spartrix. Bear in mind that our Ten-In-One Capsules will attack a wide variety of conditions very effectively, including canker. Generally speaking, where there is smoke there is fire, and I would become extremely suspicious of the entire flock if I found even one bird suffering from such symptoms. If you can be certain that there are only one or two birds in a particular loft that have disease symptoms, then isolating the affected birds and treating only them could be good advice, but I would keep a cautious eye on that flock for several weeks, and if any more pigeons were to become afflicted, immediate flock treatment would be the most prudent action to take.


A single sick bird should always be isolated from the rest of the flock and observed very closely. If things don't improve rather rapidly once a canker treatment has begun, I would then consider a treatment for respiratory disease.


After evaluating the nose and body weight, I always examine the eyes looking to see if the eyes are brilliant, full of color and not wet or dull. It is necessary to examine both eyes, because I have often found that one eye is slightly more brilliant than the other in what would appear to be an otherwise healthy pigeon. If I find this condition, then I know that the bird either is suffering from a respiratory condition, or did at one time. In some cases, birds that have suffered from a severe respiratory infection in one eye never get the complete color back in that iris ever again.

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If there is excessive moisture around the edge of the eyelid where it touches the eye itself, I know immediately that there is presence of respiratory infection. An eye loupe is an excellent tool to use to check this ridge of the eyelid to see if there is moisture around the rim. The only way to know how to recognize an excess of moisture is to examine a great many birds, and especially to look for this when you are looking at birds from a champion fancier's loft. You will see that birds that are in peak health will have relatively "dry" or normal eyes.


Eventually, you will be able to determine what is considered a healthy looking eye as opposed to one that is too wet. With experience, you'll be able to determine, even without a loupe, if certain birds have "wet eyes." If you detect too much moisture here, a repiratory infection is certain to exist. One tip I look for is the presence of trapped air bubbles lining the edge of the eye, this is a sure sign that the pigeon is suffering from a mild respiratory infection. If so, I would strongly recommend checking several other birds in the same loft for this eye condition, because I have rarely seen just one bird in a given loft suffering from "wet eyes."



If several birds have this "wet eye" symptom, you should check the loft for excessive drafts and/or dust, and immediately start a respiratory treatment program. Also, changes to the loft should be made to eliminate overcrowding or excessive drafts. It would probably be wise to treat that loft of birds with a respiratory medication for a period of up to 14 days. We like to vary the medications we use for respiratory treatment, so we alternate between Tylan with Aureomycin, or Doxyvet with Tylan, and sometimes, if suspect a severe problem, we especially like Doxyvet and Suanovil together. It is helpful to keep in mind that in cases of severe infection, combinations of these respiratory medications, as well as alternating treatments, can be very beneficial. I'd like to offer some advice concerning respiratory medications.

First, it's important to know that giving other types of drugs at the same time as respiratory drugs is not always recommended. When in doubt, it is always better to give a respiratory drug by itself than to give it in a mixture of other drugs as has become so popular today. Next, distilled water can help to make the drug more effective, because distilled water does not contain any chemicals that could react with the active ingredients in these drugs. Finally, all grit, calcium, and mineral supplements, such as picking stones, should be eliminated from the diet during the time that respiratory drugs are being given. If you follow these guidelines, the birds will get maximum benefit from the use of your respiratory medications.


I check the overall appearance of the feathers once I have finished assessing the condition of a bird's eyes. I like to see a sheen on the feathers and a feeling of softness and pliability. I know that these are relative terms, but if you are conscious of these things when you are handling pigeons, eventually, with experience, you will be able to determine what "soft and supple" and "silky and pliable" mean. If the feathers appear dry and coarse and don't have any plume (white powder that looks like talc) on them, then this is a sign of something wrong.


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Very often, a vitamin or mineral deficiency is the cause of dull feathers, and one of the things that can cause such deficiencies in pigeons is worm infestation. If I find a bird or two with dull feathers, I immediately separate them from the flock and give them a worm treatment. (Moxidectin, Moxidectin Plus, and Eqvalan are very good ones.) The next day, I check the droppings for the presence of worms in the stool. Very often, fanciers neglect worming their birds, and we have found that it can make a very big difference in their overall health.


Among other things, I open the wing and check the flight feathers. What I am looking for, aside from the shape of the flights, is fret marks and plume on the feathers. If I see a bird that is just done with the molt that has lines across the feathers, like indentations running completely across the feather, then I know that this bird was in stress at the time that that flight was coming out. An infection the bird was fighting, or, for a racer, an overnight or very tough race can cause frets to develop.


If the bird appears in good health otherwise, I just try to figure out what caused the fret to determine whether or not it was something I could have controlled. If I see a large number of these frets, then I will not breed from that particular bird during the upcoming breeding season. Also, I'll give it a year off to hopefully come back the following year with a better molt, in better health and with more sure signs of being fit enough to breed high-quality youngsters.


Of course, while I have the wing open, I always check for feather lice--either the lice themselves or their eggs embedded along the main quill of the feather. If I see a minor infestation of lice, I'll use an aerosol spray (Colombine Spray, Natural Spray, Cansafix, or Ecto-Spray, etc.) and douse the feathers of the wing along with the rump and the neck before I put the bird back into the loft.


If I see a more than one or two lice on a bird, or if I see signs of pigeon flies (identified by finding small holes in the feathers), I would then consider dipping the entire flock in a solution of Malathion diluted with water. I've been doing this for over thirty years with extremely good results. I use ¼ cup of 57 percent Malathion to two gallons of water. Generally, every bird is dipped at least once a year, and the racers are dipped more often, as they often come into contact with feral pigeons that are infested with external parasites. This dipping will protect the pigeons from lice, mites and pigeon flies for months at a time.


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Of course, you want to be extremely careful not to let the Malathion solution come into contact with the birds' eyes, and prevent any of the solution from being ingested, so we take extra precaution when dipping. We use latex surgical gloves to protect our hands, and we are careful not to let any part of the pigeon's head go into the solution.



We always pick a sunny, dry day to do this, with temperatures above 50 degrees. We have found that the birds will dry off completely within thiry to forty minutes and seem to show a great deal of enthusiasm and renewed vigor once they have dried. I know that many fanciers around this country have problems with pigeon flies, and I can assure you, if you do, your race results will not be at the very top.


These are among the things that I look for in the overall health of my birds. If any bird does not come up to what I consider top health, I will not breed from that bird--or race it. I have found through experience that it would be a complete waste of time.


Remember: The winning you will do with the young birds that you hatch in the spring is entirely tied to the overall health of the breeders when you paired them. Only the healthiest breeders will produce pigeons good enough to perform in today's intense competition, and only birds that have been cared for properly before the breeding season begins will be fit enough to produce the kinds of pigeons that will win.


Yours in the Sport,


Ed



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Featured
Products for
February:


Order 2015 AU bands now if you have not already done so.

Ed recommends these products based on finishing your pairing of birds and raising the first round of youngsters....




A.U. BandsNow available for 2015. Letter "A" designated. These are A.U. certified bands. Using them will allow you to compete in any A.U. certified race. Siegel’s keeps records of the bands so that if a stray bird is found with the letter designation "A" it is a Siegel’s issued band for which we can trace the owner. Available in plastic only.
10 Plastic bands
$4.70
Item #1259
SW 1.20 lbs




100 Plastic bands
$45.00
Item #1258A
SW 1.40 lbs




Turbosole - Currently the world-wide product of choice for canker in pigeons. This product has a wide safety margin, and is safe to use during racing, breeding, or molting. Complete directions included. (Australian Pigeon Company)

200 grams
$34.95
Item #3023
SW 2.00 lbs


THE PIGEON – by Dr. Colin Walker. Dr. Walker is a very successful pigeon racing veterinarian in Australia, and he shares information gained during 30 years of racing his own birds that includes race fitness, race preparation and recovery, disease control during racing and breeding, behavior, droppings, loft design, feeding, and much more.

Book
$120
Item #3039
SW 7 lbs



Best new book on the pigeon sport!
Kingmaker - DeRauw-Sablon: A Racing Pigeon Dynasty
- A must for any pigeon fancier's library! The DeRauw-Sablon strain is one of the most sought after and valuable racing pigeon strains in the world. This is the definitive work with over 100 photos and illustrations. Hard cover, color photos, 156 pp.

Book
$55.00
Item #5644
SW 4 lbs




Doxyvet - This is the world-wide product of choice for upper respiratory problems. It is is also less affected by concurrent use of calcium and other mineral supplements. Very popular. (Australian Pigeon Company)
200 grams   
$29.95
Item #3024
SW 1.70 lbs

.


Berimax - Advanced canker treatment for racing and show birds. Laboratory tests in Europe and the U.S. have proven that this unique "all natural" formula provides the most advanced recipe against all 26 strains of canker. Five days of use has proven to eradicate even the most resistant strains of canker, and it is so safe that it can safely be given to four-day-old babies. To completely eradicate very resistant strains of canker can require a full 5 to 7 day treatment and sometimes increasing dosages  We have also found it very helpful to use Berimax in conjunction with Ecol Tonic to get rid of resistant candida and canker, as Ecol Tonic seems to increase the strength of Berimax.  Use one level teaspoon of Berimax per gallon of water. Contents will treat 16 gallons of water.

80 grams
$34.95
Item #0181
SW 1.00 lb

2 - 80 gram canisters
$62.50
Item #0181A
SW 1.50 lb

3 - 80 gram canisters
$90.00
Item #0181B
SW 2.00 lb





Ecol-Tonic An all-natural product fortified with ten special organic acids and proven in the loft to be effective in boosting immunity and promoting health and vigor, and bringing the droppings back to normal in racing and show pigeons. 16 oz. will dose 32 gallons of water. Always remember to follow the use of Ecol-Tonic with a good pro-biotic.
16 oz.   
$19.95
Item #5673
SW 2.70 lbs

1 qt.   
$39.95
Item #5655
SW 3.40 lbs

1 gallon  
$139.95
Item #5668
SW 9.70 lbs





Pigeon Power – This chelated liquid mineral mixture is readily absorbed through the intestines into the bird’s system. Use it extensively during racing and breeding, often spraying it onto the feed. Works extremely well as a bonding agent for brewer’s yeast and vitamins. A Siegel’s exclusive, considered by many as the best mineral supplement available.
16 oz.
$8.95
Item #1137
SW 2.20 lbs


32 oz.
$16.95
Item #1138
SW 3.45 lbs


Gallon
$41.95
Item #10110
SW 9.70 lbs



.


Pro-Vital Pigeon Breeder Plus- Created specifically for the breeding racing pigeon with all the ingredients needed for a healthy breeding season. Contains malto-dextrin, 13 vitamins, chelated minerals, pro-biotics, digestive enzymes, L-Carnitine, electrolytes, amino acids, and a plant extract that helps to control fecal odors. Use in either water or feed.
8 oz.
$17.95
Item #0054
SW 1.5 lbs.
OUT OF STOCK


28 oz.
$56.95
Item #0061
SW 3.0 lbs




Biochol – Contains methionine, choline, sorbitol, biotin, and vitamin B-12. Highly recommended as a liver and moult tonic with depurative action. Promotes excellent plumage. (Oropharma – Belgium)
500 ml.
$27.95
Item #5006
SW 2.95 lbs





Health Gard -- A pro-biotic water-additive formula made from specially cultured, naturally occurring microbes and a unique catalyst, which increases blood-stream absorption by ten times. Use one teaspoon per gallon of water. One quart covers 60 to 80 birds for six months.
1 quart  
$29.95
Item #0097
SW 3.80 lbs


1 pt.   
$19.95
Item #0098
SW 2.80 lbs



1 gallon.   
$99.95
Item #0096
SW 9.30 lbs




Calcamineral – This is the genuine product! Accept no substitutes! All essential minerals plus vitamins with added oyster shell, making this product an excellent source for calcium needed by laying hens and by older cocks feeding young. (Pego - Germany).
1,000 grams
$6.95
Item #5515
SW 3.70 lbs.





Fertibol - Tremendous aid for fertility and hatchability. This world renown product contains a special formulation including calcium, phosphorus, and vitamins A, D3, and E, proven necessary for good laying and hatching of eggs. Fertibol promotes healthy skeletal growth as well, so it can be given during the weaning period to produce strong-boned young and during breeding. Excellent for older birds.
500 ml.
Item #7012
$1
6.95
SW 2.50 lbs





Aminovit – This liquid conditioning preparation contains 21 amino acids. Developed years ago by Jos Herbots, brother of Philip, and well known as a specialist in long-distance flights. Amino acids are well known as the building blocks of albumen, essential to the function of the muscles and nerves. Two important factors, found in Aminovit, are vital: the percentage of each amino acid in the combination, and the quality of the amino acids. For speed and middle distance races, use on the third-to-last and last day before basketing. For long distance races, use during the three days before the day of basketing. (Herbots – Belgium)
1 liter
$25.95
Item #0356
SW 3.45 lbs





Natural Naturaline – Concentrated greens and plant extracts. Concocted from fifteen specifically selected varieties of plants and herbs, this extract has been proven effective in aiding the respiratory, digestive and urinary tracts. Pigeons that receive regular doses of Naturaline in their drinking water display a rosier skin, more glossy and luxurious plumage, and the pigmentation and luster in the eye are heightened—all signs of optimum health. (Natural - Belgium)
1,000 ml.
$6.95
Item #0330
SW 3.55 lbs




Natural Vitamineral – Vitaminized minerals in powder form. Vitamineral is a product that the pigeons need all year long. There is always a marked increase in consumption during breeding, after a race, and during the moult. Use in the grit. (Natural - Belgium)
600 grams
$2.95
Item #0325
SW 2.45 lbs

2.5 kg.
$9.95
Item #0326
SW 6.70 lbs

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All other inquiries to siegelsc@aol.com
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