great gift idea for that special fancier is a Siegel's Gift
Certificate, available in any amount, for a holiday gift,
a birthday, Father's Day, or any other occasion. Just phone us
at 800-437-4436 and we'll make up a nice certificate and
mail it to your recipient. He or she will be able to apply it
to a new book, a great new training basket, medications or supplements,
or any other purchase from Siegel's.
Dozens of birds from the Zazueta loft have been
auctioned. Due to popular request, we've retained information about
the lineage and history of the Zazueta loft here on the web
Click here for details
The timer revolution
When split seconds count, make sure you're counting split seconds
accurately! Benzing electronic timers
have quickly become the new standard in our sport and are more
popular than ever! The best has gotten better! Benzing's
new M-1 clock and "Lazer" antennas are now in
the States, and full distribution is now available. They are the
most accurate, sensitive antenna in the world today--with the
most antenna coils per square inch of any
pigeon scanning antenna available!
was a kick to sit at our computer monitor and "watch"
the birds clock in the World Ace Challenge races!
The biggest races rely on the Benzing tradition of accuracy
and speed, and the Benzing M-1 system is revealing itself
to be heads above the competition.
A Benzing M-1 "Lazer" system recently clocked
the Lou McElroy Race. Among the other major one-loft races
using Benzing Lazers are the Colorado Goldrush Race,
a 300-mile race flown from Elm Creek, NE, released on October
the East Coast Classic, the Gulf Coast
Classic, the San Diego Classic, the San Jacinto
Classic, America's King Cup, the Snowbird
Classic, and the Caribbean Classic.
Other members of the Benzing "family" of futurity races
and racing combines include the Texas Shoot-Out, American Showdown,
Desert Classic, East Coast Challenge, Flamingo Race, Caribbean
Classic, Queen City Memorial, Boundbrook Futurity, and
Paterson Air Derby, among many others....
Tell me more...
me to Instructions for Downloading Benzing Clocks to WinSpeed after
me to Instructions for Acquiring and Using the Benzing Download
me to Instructions for Atomic Timer Use on Benzing Electronic Systems...
me to a list of printers that are compatible with Benzing Electronic
News & Views:
In his newest report, Stefan Mertens interviews National Winners, Ronald Lodewijckx, Bert Vanden Berghe, Meulemans-Damen, Jespers-Vanderwegen, and Schreel Family... Mertens filed another recent
report on National Winners, Rudy DeSear, Erik Vermander, Schoors-De Waele, and Monard... Mertens himself is the 2006 1st National Champion KBDB
Middle Distance Youngbirds.
For these reports, and many other archived features,
Read on for all the news!
Suanovil is not in stock now. When it is unavailable, there are effective substitutes.
Suanovil is one of the most effective products for respiratory
infections in our birds, so feel free to call us about its availability
whenever you might need it.
When you cannot find Suanovil, there are very effective substitutes
for it: Doxy-T and Doxyvet, Tylan Concentrate,
Linco-Spectin, or Ery-Mycin. Any of these can be
substituted for Suanovil with very satisfactory results.
For severe cases, we recommend using two of these products in
combination with each other.
Ed Minvielle on the road...again!
Siegel Pigeons prospective travel schedule:
Texas Center Racing Pigeon Convention - July 16-20, Tulsa, OK
American Racing Pigeon Union Convention - October 22-25, Omaha, NE
California State Racing Pigeon Organization - October 23-26 in Medesto, CA
IF Convention - October 30-November 1, Long Island, NY
National Show - November 15th, Greenwich, CT
GHC Convention - December 3-6, Springhill, FL
We look forward to seeing our friends and customers around the country on our travels in 2014...
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Tips for the fancier:
in the Loft
fanciers start to evaluate their young birds from the past breeding
season during September, which makes this a time of year that
we especially enjoy in pigeon racing. Only now can we start to
assess the quality of our previous year's pairings. This is an
exciting time for both racing or show fanciers, when we find out
if we bred that "special bird" or discovered a "special pair."
The thrill of the possibilities is what I believe keeps
many of us in the sport and provides so much pleasure. I know
that this is true for me, anyway.
I'd like to share with you some thoughts on training and feeding. A few years back, I was speaking with a champion young-bird fancier
with several decades of experience, and what he shared with me
was quite intriguing.
He told me that he had been keeping detailed records on his young
birds for many years, and he had developed a theory that his pigeons
seemed to come into and go out of condition in cycles lasting
three-weeks. He described how he had monitored his top clock birds
over the many years of his racing career, and with the exception
of the occasional super champion, most of his pigeons seemed to
take approximately three weeks of intense training to come into
condition, remaining in condition for about three weeks, and giving
The other part of the cycle was apparently
that they would fall off for about three weeks before their results
would again be outstanding. After that conversation with him,
I have closely followed the results of not only my own teams of
birds, but also those of the many fanciers that I have worked
with over the years.
Our findings seem to indicate a definite correlation with the
"three week rule."
Many fanciers have birds that they fly week in and week out with
outstanding results, but those birds are rare and are certainly
the exceptions to the rule. The vast majority of our birds give
one or two or perhaps three good performances, with less than
stellar results for the rest of the racing season.
I wonder about
a way to monitor or assess top condition in our birds-perhaps
by measuring the blood-oxygen ratio-through which we could determine
before shipping them, if they are in optimum condition to give
a top performance. Knowing this, we could strategize to save
our best racers and rest them when their condition is not
its best. We could know when the bird was at its very best and
put the "pedal to the metal" so to speak!
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I have personally never been a big fan of super-hard training,
and I have never regretted that approach to racing. Of course,
everything is relative, and hard training in one area of the country
might not be considered so hard in another, but I can attest to
the following: In my line of work, I field questions from fanciers
every day, and I'm glad to be able to say that in almost no case
has this method of training and feeding young birds failed to
produce winning results, from the smallest club level of competition
to the biggest and most prestigious competitions in America.
like to offer some ideas for your consideration.
my earlier statement about our birds coming into form over a three-week
period and remaining in form for three weeks--with the exception
of the champion bird. I believe that a successful training regimen
would look something like this: Start training at a distance
that you think your young birds can handle without stressing them
too hard. This way, if you have a team of birds that hasn't
been flock flying around the loft very well, you have no reason
to go out two miles.
On the other hand, if your birds have been
training around the loft very well, and you are sure that they
have "routed" from as far as three or more miles from home, you
might consider starting your birds a little farther out.
Personally, I don't think it matters much whether you start at one mile
or ten miles. I think what is important is that the birds
feel comfortable and capable of handling the task you give them.
I like to keep the pigeons' confidence up, because confident pigeons
race faster than those that are having second thoughts as to where
they actually are. By training often, every day, but not necessarily
so very far, I think that you can accomplish getting the birds'
Naturally, I also take the birds to longer distances, but to this
date, I have never taken my birds to the first race station prior
to a race, and although we (meaning myself and those that I help)
compete against many who do, we've never seemed to lose very much
ground to those guys who train super hard prior to the season. Keep in mind the "three week rule."
course, if you have a large number of birds, and you work them
very hard very early, you're in a better situation at the beginning
of racing season to send only the better birds to the most important
races, just as long as those birds have been given some time to
"get their wings back under them."
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I don't have the time or the
room to have a very large team of birds, and most people that
I have helped don't either, so I prefer to train the birds
in a gradual way so that for the most important races on the
schedule, I have birds that are capable of competing well in them.
And I haven't had to take a loan at the bank to pay for the fuel
and a new set of tires on my truck!
tidbit I'll throw out is this: I'm not a great fan of tossing
the birds in small groups, unless I have someone at home
who can feed the birds the proper amount as they arrive and not
let them over-eat. We all read about this or that champion fancier
who trains his pigeons in small groups so that they learn how
to separate from the flock, and develop more confidence flying
in smaller groups, rather than becoming accustomed to flying in
a large flock.
I agree with the premise of this idea, but I also
know that every fancier trains under very different circumstances,
and we must all consider every aspect of our training regimen
before we take a particular course of action.
season a friend told me that he was having trouble with his young
bird team. They were sluggish, wouldn't fly well around the loft,
and he was having trouble getting them on line with the training.
He thought that the birds were sick. I asked him to detail his
regimen, and he told me that he was taking the birds out every
morning for training, and either he or his training partner was
letting the birds out one basket at a time.
This meant that the
birds were being released about 15 at a time up to twenty minutes
apart. From the first to the last basket there was often an
almost two-hour time differential. I asked him who was at
home when the birds arrived. He told me, "No one." When he trained
the birds himself, he had barely enough time to let the birds
go and get to work, and when his buddy trained for him, he was
always at work when the birds eventually arrived.
After thinking about it for a second, I told him this: "Your birds are not sick, and they aren't stupid, but they are being fed in a very improper way." He balked at that, saying that he fed the best mixture that he could afford. I told him that it wasn't the mixture itself, but the way in which the birds were getting the mixture that was the problem.
first two groups of birds being released on his tosses were coming
home and taking their pick of what was in the feeders. All the
others were having to make do with what was left, if anything
was left. He confessed to me that he was really loading the feeders
down with feed so that he could make sure that the later arrivals
had something waiting for them. I told him to immediately stop
training his birds in small groups and start letting the entire
flock up at one time. I also told him to measure the amount of
feed that the birds were cleaning up within ten or twelve minutes
after he fed. That would be his "base amount" of feed.
then told him to put that measured amount of feed in the feeders
and let the entire flock fly home to that amount of feed every
day. Within a week, with no medication, his birds began doing
much better. By the time the races started, his birds were
flying like gang-busters. He ended up winning ten of the fourteen
races that season.
Were his birds sick? No. Was it so necessary
for him to train the birds in small groups? In his case, certainly
not. He had no one there to keep the early arrivals from over-eating
at the later arrivals' expense. Once all of his birds got on the
same feeding schedule, the entire flock benefited.
For those of you who work during the daytime and don't have anyone at home to separate the arrivals, or feed them as they come in, I recommend that you forget all the fancy small flock tosses. Leave that to those who have all day to train, and have the assistance of a group of helpers. About all that they will gain on you will be a couple of short early races, because once your flock has had a few faces under its belt, your birds will be on the same page as the others, and the quality of the pigeon will be the ultimate determining factor in whose birds are winners on race day.
Yours in the Sport,
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recommends these products based
on conditions that tend to develop around the loft during late
Optimum nutrition for youngsters now will maximize their
Ed's suggestions follow....
THE PIGEON – by Dr. Colin Walker. Dr. Walker is a very successful pigeon racing veterinarian in Australia, and he shares information gained during 30 years of racing his own birds that includes race fitness, race preparation and recovery, disease control during racing and breeding, behavior, droppings, loft design, feeding, and much more.
SW 7 lbs
Murium - Special ingredients provide for a smooth, slick molt and help to eliminate
toxins which affect the generation of new plumage. Also acts as an elixir
for the liver. A top moulting tonic. (Comed - Belgium)
SW 1.90 lbs.
Gard -- A pro-biotic
water-additive formula made from specially cultured, naturally occurring
microbes and a unique catalyst, which increases blood-stream absorption
by ten times. Use one teaspoon per gallon of water. One quart covers 60
to 80 birds for six months.
SW 3.80 lbs
SW 2.80 lbs
SW 9.30 lbs
Prodigest - Stimulates natural resistance,
increases feather condition, improves muscle condition, helps with the
moult, balances the intestine after stress, and helps digestion.
(Herbots - Belgium)
SW 2.00 lbs
Pigeon Vitality Improver – Natural organic acids designed to improve race performance and to protect the pigeons against bacterial diseases such as paratyphoid, salmonella, E. coli, and others. Improver balances the natural micro flora in our pigeons by selectively killing the bad bacteria, thus enhancing nutrient intake and stimulating the natural immune defense system to increase resistance to disease. Super concentrated! One 125 gram jar of Improver will treat 100 birds for six months, but it is by far even more economical in the 1500 gram or 225 gram size! Measuring spoon included. (Pigeon Vitality - Norway)
SW 2.00 lbs
Pigeon Vitality Anti-Fungal - Developed to solve the problem of bad fungi in the gut. It is only active with low acidity in the drinking water (a pH of less than 5). This low acidity can be ensured by always giving Anti-Fungal in combination with Improver. With Improver, it will kill bad bacteria such as salmonella, E. coli and also inhibit the spread of other diseases like canker and coccidiosis. Anti-Fungal contains the active ingredient 2.4 heksadienoicacid. One 125 gram jar of Improver will treat 100 birds for six months, but it is by far even more economical in the 1500 gram or 225 gram size! Measuring spoon included. (Pigeon Vitality - Norway)
SW 1.20 lbs
SW 2.00 lbs
Ecol-Tonic – An all-natural product fortified with ten special organic
acids and proven in the loft to be effective in boosting immunity and
promoting health and vigor, and bringing the droppings back to normal
in racing and show pigeons. 16 oz. will dose 32 gallons of water. Always
remember to follow the use of Ecol-Tonic with a good pro-biotic.
SW 2.70 lbs
SW 3.40 lbs
SW 9.70 lbs
Digestal – This product contains helpful lactobacillus bacteria, which are essential
to maintaining good digestion. Digestal replenishes these bacteria which
are destroyed during medication. (Colombine - Belgium)
SW 1.95 lbs
Naturaline – Concentrated greens and plant extracts. Concocted from
fifteen specifically selected varieties of plants and herbs, this extract
has been proven effective in aiding the respiratory, digestive and urinary
tracts. Pigeons that receive regular doses of Naturaline in their drinking
water display a rosier skin, more glossy and luxurious plumage, and the
pigmentation and luster in the eye are heightened—all signs of optimum
health. (Natural - Belgium)
SW 3.55 lbs
Biochol – Contains methionine, choline, sorbitol, biotin, and vitamin B-12. Highly
recommended as a liver and moult tonic with depurative action. Promotes
excellent plumage. (Oropharma – Belgium)
SW 2.95 lbs
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